Ottawa is a bilingual city shaped by both its vibrant Franco-Ontarian community, francophonies from around the world, and its next-door neighbour, Quebec. This walking tour threads through the ACE District’s francophone core: a bakery, a longstanding independent bookstore, a boutique, two very different bistros, and a theatre that’s been staging French-language work for decades. Start with a coffee and a croissant, end with the curtain going up.
7 stops · ~7.5 km · Note: Check establishment hours. Reservations and tickets may be required at some locations.
1. Le Boulanger Français — 119 Murray St.
Start the day the French way: an espresso and something flaky from the display case. Le Boulanger Français is a treat for locals and visitors alike, and the cozy café makes it easy to linger. Stick around and enjoy your breakfast with a good book or conversation, or take your pastry to go and eat it while you explore the ByWard Market’s cobblestone alleys. Either way, grab an extra croissant for the road.
2. Librairie du Soleil d’Ottawa — 33 George St.
Tucked into Clarendon Lanes, this francophone bookstore has been a cornerstone of Ottawa-Gatineau’s French-speaking community since 1988. Browse floor-to-ceiling titles from Franco-Ontarian, Quebec, Acadian, French Canadian and international publishers, get lost in the kids’ section, and peruse the wall of puzzles and board games deep enough to empty a wallet. Pick up something to take with you for the day — every flaneur or flaneuse needs a book under one arm.
3. Cocotte Bistro — 123 Metcalfe St.
Inside the Metcalfe Hotel, Cocotte Bistro serves elegant French classics from breakfast through dinner, and a delectable weekend brunch. Ask about the Ottawa-Brest if you’re craving something sweet, or settle in for a plate that could pass for lunch in the 7th arrondissement. Missed it in the morning? Cocotte also makes a perfect dinner option later on this tour.
4. Viens Avec Moi — 320 Catherine St.
French fashion meets Canadian design at this Ottawa boutique, where the racks favour easy, timeless pieces over fast-fashion trends. Everything is designed in Canada and made in ethical factories, built to outlast a season. Good for a dinner party, a walk about town, or both.
5. Gitanes — 361 Elgin St.
An oyster and a cold glass of wine, watched over by Elgin Street’s evening foot traffic — Gitanes turns a patio table into a corner bistro in Paris. The tasting menu shifts with the chef’s mood, often arriving as a handwritten card at your table. Dinner only, Tuesday through Saturday. Book ahead.
6. Buvette Daphnée — 11 William St.
From Montreal boulevards to the winding roads of Gaspésie, Buvette Daphnée pairs Quebec’s terroir with the perfect glass, curated by sommelier Nicholas Leduc. The food menu is short, the wine list is not, and the bread comes from Oddo, a small bakery just across the river in Gatineau. It’s easy to see why it landed on Canada’s Top 100 Restaurants list. Dinner starts at 5. Book ahead.
7. La Nouvelle Scène Gilles Desjardins — 333 King Edward Ave.
French-language theatre has never played it safe in Canada, and La Nouvelle Scène Gilles Desjardins is where four francophone theatre companies make their case. Programming changes constantly, so check what’s on stage before you go (note: tickets do sell out). A fitting last stop for a day of francophonie in Ottawa.